DISCOVER AFGHANISTAN - BLINK AS YOU EMERGE FROM THE CLIFFS AT THE TOP OF ONE OF BAMIYAN´S ENORMOUS BUDDHA NICHES. STOP PEDALLING FOR A MOMENT AND DRIFT IN YOUR SWAN-SHAPED PEDALO ON THE WATERS OF BAND-E AMIR. UTTER A GREAT SMOKING SIGH OF CONTENTMENT AS YOU PUFF ON A SHEESHA AT MIRWAIS SHANDAIZ. IN THIS GUIDE: CHAPTERS ON WORKING AND SAFETY IN AFGHANISTAN, WITH ADVICE FROM RESIDENT EXPATS. SPECIALIST CONTRIBUTORS WRITE ON JOURNALISM, WOMEN, AND TREKKING IN THE WAKHAN AND THE AFGHAN PAMIR. LONELY PLANET FOUNDER TONY WHEELER REFLECTS ON TRAVEL TO AFGHANISTAN OVER THE DECADES.